My first ccvm still build, from the Uk

Mereside

Hi guys after spending quiet some time reading up on the whole process here’s the results so far.
I intend to build a shotgun condenser later but thought my easiest option learning to solder would be a Liebig which is 4ft to get me up and running and then I can build the shotgun.
I cut my keg and added a 4“ port to clean up the first column is packed with copper mesh but was thinking the second with lava rock but any thoughts on this will help as I don’t really know. Also should I pack the sight glass with copper or something or leave empty?, all suggestions are welcome.
The top condenser I rolled 3m worth of 1/4“ copper tube and think it turned out ok for my first attempt just need to add fittings  I am waiting on a couple of clamps and gaskets but nearly ready to get her fired up which will be propane for now, regards Wayne.Attachments

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NormandieStill

Nice. 50L keg? My 30L is basically the same.
I should leave the sight glass empty so that you can see the reflux coming back down. It'll help with visualising what's happening as well as ensuring that you don't flood. Also you'll want to insulate that column since you'll be running outside (At least, on propane I really hope you will!).
Is that a wood-fired pizza oven visible out of the window?

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"I have a potstill that smears like a fresh plowed coon on the highway" - Jimbo
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Mereside

Thanks for the swift response, It is indeed 50ltr and excited to get going, I will be running it semi outside in my man cave I’ve just built it has folding doors so open front, I will fully insulate the column to help her along, I will leave the sight glass free then so I can see what’s happening and yes that’s a pizza oven to go with the man cave, regards Wayne.Attachments

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elbono

I like my packing just below or barely in the sight glass so I can see the top of it. Reflux coming down as Normandie says but I like to see it hit the packing too. Definitely don't fill the whole thing.
You want some copper in there somewhere but lava rock has committed fans here. I don't have personal experience but I've seen opinions here that a particular packing operates best at a particular vapor speed (power input) and if you mix one of them will not be in it's happy place. If you go lava just put a ball of copper mesh below it.
You may need a short spool above the cross, less than 250 mm needed. I can't see if you have one in your pics.
Looking goodA wise man never makes a mistake. He has many learning experiences.

RockinRockies

Awesome build and awesome setup!

Mereside

Thanks for your reply it’s most helpful, I have a 150mm spool but need to tig the tri clamp fittings onto it before it’s complete and as I go along I will update my post to show progress, but so far so good the spool is a little over 2“ but there’s method in my madness as the coil I am going to solder a disc onto the inlet/outlet which fits the oversize spool but it won’t go past the 2“ at full reflux so that will be my setting each time, and a rod will fit the disc with little tabs I can adjust the condenser exactly each time.
You can see the t piece was my first time using the tig in a while and I had the amps too low and in turn had to go slow and I cooked it, it needs a full clean up and will polish it out.
I’m pretty chuffed to be honest and looking forward to doing a cleaning run to see how I get on, regards WayneAttachments

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Last edited by Mereside on Sat Nov 26, 2022 6:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

witch

Very nice lot of hard work there.  

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Live today hope for tomorrow

Twisted-Brick

Looking good Wayne.  The build has come along nicely.  Tight wood-fired oven too.“Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore, always carry a small snake.”
- W.C. Fields
My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer

Mereside

Thanks your links and talks where very helpful, I have spent quite some time going through posts and wrapping my head round the whole process, before I get going, it’s amazing the help and knowledge on the site to steer us that have no clue the right way, I am itching to try a shotgun as well now I did the Liebig and my joints where pretty decent, I can see this hobby keeping me busy as there seems to be lots to tinker with along the journey, hopefully it won’t be long till I get some nice neutral off her to make some Gin, regards Wayne.

Mereside

Thanks it’s been a nice project so far, I love making things, I have a spare servo and ball screw so think I’m going to attach that to my condenser so I can alter it exactly the same each time, way over the top but I can’t help it lol, regards Wayne.

Mereside

Condenser and plate fitted up now to sort out the adjuster arm, regards WayneAttachments

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bcook608

So you've got me thinking (which is dangerous).
What if you made a spool that was slip fit over the top that would allow the top to telescope like an old car antenna? You said you had a servo sitting around, would that work? I'm not an engineer, nor am I particularly skilled at building, but you could attach the top section of the coil to the moving outer sleeve and since it will be knocking down everything above the takeoff branch, you shouldn't have to worry about vapor leaks.
Just an idea.- New users start here
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Knife_man

You have a lovely kitchen

.
Did you weld in the 4" ferrule yourself or get someone to do it?
Looks like your doing a great job so far , only thing I would add is if possible solder the coil pipes into the plate and get rid of those brass connectors as they are in the vapor path. + If they were to spring a leak it would totally messed up your run and probably be a devill to troubleshoot.

Mereside

Thanks for your ideas, anything’s possible really so I need to have a think but basically I was going to add a plate to the spool outer for the servo to bolt onto, the copper disc is going have a couple of threaded rods to be long enough that it can lower the coil to it’s maximum on the top of the rods another plate that will align with the servo and be long enough to hold the ballscrew nut and it should work pretty well, the servo board is small and has forward/ reverse so nothing else is needed, pretty simple I think lol, we will see, I’m working on site next couple of days so won’t get to do any more till mid week, regards Wayne

bcook608

Thanks for your ideas, anything’s possible really so I need to have a think but basically I was going to add a plate to the spool outer for the servo to bolt onto, the copper disc is going have a couple of threaded rods to be long enough that it can lower the coil to it’s maximum on the top of the rods another plate that will align with the servo and be long enough to hold the ballscrew nut and it should work pretty well, the servo board is small and has forward/ reverse so nothing else is needed, pretty simple I think lol, we will see, I’m working on site next couple of days so won’t get to do any more till mid week, regards WayneThat sounds similar to what I was thinking except the slip fit spools would keep the system (semi) closed with the exception of your atmosphere vent. you could just weld a small tab for the threaded rods to attach just below a tri clamp so you can remove the coil for cleaning and/or maintenance.- New users start here
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bcook608

Plus I just think it would look fucking cool! lol- New users start here
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Mereside

I did. weld in the 4“ port it’s been quite some time since I last used my tig so it wasn’t as easy as I remember but I got there in the end and it’s clean inside so I am happy,
The brass here is lead free and water safe but I was thinking of soldering to the plate as well, I don’t think vapour will get that high but I need to run it and see how things work, I am pretty much making it up as I go along so if anyone thinks things won’t work please feel free to tell me, regards Wayne

Knife_man

I did. weld in the 4“ port it’s been quite some time since I last used my tig so it wasn’t as easy as I remember but I got there in the end and it’s clean inside so I am happy,
The brass here is lead free and water safe but I was thinking of soldering to the plate as well, I don’t think vapour will get that high but I need to run it and see how things work, I am pretty much making it up as I go along so if anyone thinks things won’t work please feel free to tell me, regards WayneI don't want to start the whole safe materials argument just offering my opinion , personally I think UK brass is ok however if I have the opportunity to remove it from my still I take it, especially anywhere vapor might reach. Although I had done many a run with brass in the vapor path.
Fancy coming round and welding my ferrule in

. I've had to cut my first attempt off since it warped more than I was happy with

.

Mereside

I did. weld in the 4“ port it’s been quite some time since I last used my tig so it wasn’t as easy as I remember but I got there in the end and it’s clean inside so I am happy,
The brass here is lead free and water safe but I was thinking of soldering to the plate as well, I don’t think vapour will get that high but I need to run it and see how things work, I am pretty much making it up as I go along so if anyone thinks things won’t work please feel free to tell me, regards WayneI don't want to start the whole safe materials argument just offering my opinion , personally I think UK brass is ok however if I have the opportunity to remove it from my still I take it, especially anywhere vapor might reach. Although I had done many a run with brass in the vapor path.
Fancy coming round and welding my ferrule in

. I've had to cut my first attempt off since it warped more than I was happy with

.No problem in coming up with anything you thinks better as I am new to this so all help is greatly received, the only reason I used the bulkhead fittings was I run out of tube, I need to extend out a bit for the condenser not to snag when I lower it but I can always solder but I might just roll another coil that’s long enough for what I originally wanted, I first got some csst tube but I couldn’t get it to fit the 2“ and finding it here in the Uk is like rocking horse shit, regards Wayne

Knife_man

You will get that alot

. Stuff that the US members can just stroll into a hardware store to buy but is dammed near impossible for us UK members to get.
I've had a devil of a time finding flux for stainless

, tried every type of readily available flux I could , imported some from China which doesn't work and now I'm waiting on the stay bright which home distillers in the US swear by but couldn't find it over here at all! Had to import it.
I don't run a CCVM myself so my advice is limited at best just that if I was building that coil I would have soldered it directly into the plate as it removes the brass and a potential leak point at the same time if you need to extend the pipes then the next size up pipe is a good enough fit to make a solder in coupler in my experience.
Don't sweat it though. I pretty much guarantee that after running it you will end up rebuilding and or modifying some parts . The important part in my opinion is to get up and running and see what works well for you.

Mereside

You will get that alot

. Stuff that the US members can just stroll into a hardware store to buy but is dammed near impossible for us UK members to get.
I've had a devil of a time finding flux for stainless

, tried every type of readily available flux I could , imported some from China which doesn't work and now I'm waiting on the stay bright which home distillers in the US swear by but couldn't find it over here at all! Had to import it.
I don't run a CCVM myself so my advice is limited at best just that if I was building that coil I would have soldered it directly into the plate as it removes the brass and a potential leak point at the same time if you need to extend the pipes then the next size up pipe is a good enough fit to make a solder in coupler in my experience.
Don't sweat it though. I pretty much guarantee that after running it you will end up rebuilding and or modifying some parts . The important part in my opinion is to get up and running and see what works well for you. Thanks for the help it’s greatly received, I definitely know I won’t be stopping at this as I love to make things, I can see me doing all sorts although you are right I need it running and see how she fairs and make the right adjustments and I can see I need to practice with the tig as it might get some use lol, regards Wayne

kimbodious

Your RC coil is going to need to have close contact with the walls of the reflux chamber. I strongly recommend weaving some potscrubbers in and around the RC to give you that contact.--
50L Beer keg boiler, 2200W element
Modular 2" Pot Still
Modular 2" CCVM
opinions are free and everybody has them, experience costs you time

Mereside

I have just ordered some, after spending a while trying to find proper copper ones as opposed to coated copper, regards Wayne.

kimbodious

I have just ordered some, after spending a while trying to find proper copper ones as opposed to coated copper, regards Wayne.SS will work fine--
50L Beer keg boiler, 2200W element
Modular 2" Pot Still
Modular 2" CCVM
opinions are free and everybody has them, experience costs you time

shadylane

No disrespect, but I disagree.
Pot-scrubbers occupy space and vapor has to move faster to get around it.
That means vapor is moving faster and has less time to condense on the cool surface of the coils.  

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Chauncey

No disrespect, but I disagree.
Pot-scrubbers occupy space and vapor has to move faster to get around it.
That means vapor is moving faster and has less time to condense on the cool surface of the coils.  

your deflag comparison thread definitely leads me to think the same, shady.
When people tell me I'll regret that in the morning,  I sleep till noon.

shadylane

I would like to see if there's any advantage to some mesh on the bottom of a CCVM coil.
Maybe use it to "detune" the coil and make the height adjustment less critical?
Possibly force more of the vapor to exit the column, instead of condensing as reflux?

Chauncey

I used some on my ccvm coils just to help it stay in position, which it was a decently snug fit without but would slip under water weight.
When people tell me I'll regret that in the morning,  I sleep till noon.

kimbodious

Plenty of CCVM operators on here, had trouble getting efficiency from their RC coils until they increased the amount of contact between the RC and the walls of the reflux chamber.
Shady, the CCVM coil is the reflux condenser, The RC on a CCVM is above the offtake. If there’s big enough gaps between the coil and the walls of the reflux chamber then the vapour will go further up before condensing, if at all, or exit out the top of the column, which nobody wants.
I like to think of the RC in a CCVM as a piston of cold, If you have good contact with the cylinder walls you have good compression.
Detuning is not a bad thing it makes operating the RC less binary giving more scope for fine scale adjustments.--
50L Beer keg boiler, 2200W element
Modular 2" Pot Still
Modular 2" CCVM
opinions are free and everybody has them, experience costs you timeI can try  this as well, see how it goes and show results, regards Wayne

Mereside

Quick update, bracket made for the servo, copper mesh came and scrubbers, the mesh I rolled and slipped into the spools does it look ok one end a little tighter than the other, one slides in and holds itself the other touches the sides but can fall out but when packed each spool can easily be blown down without struggling, scrubber also added to the centre condenser, regards WayneAttachments

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kimbodious

Looks good!--
50L Beer keg boiler, 2200W element
Modular 2" Pot Still
Modular 2" CCVM
opinions are free and everybody has them, experience costs you time

Yummyrum

Glad you are doing this Wayne .Everytime I use the 3D printer at work , all I see is a way to not have  to climb on the roof to adjust my 4” reflux still .My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory

Mereside

That’s what gave me the idea having a printer myself although the ballscrew and nut was a spare for my lathe I have been doing, I have a simple forward reverse board from an annealing machine I knocked up, so I am pulling all the spares I have together, if you hadn’t noticed already you will see I love building and making things, regards Wayne.

Mereside

Liebig on now that the clamp came, my top spool was too wide to tig the tri clamp fitting on so I have ordered a short 200mm piece so I can finish off the stepper motor brackets and then can stoke her up,


, regards Wayne.Attachments

Deplorable

Not that this is scientific comparison, but I find mine more effective (1/4" copper single helix) without the copper mesh woven into the middle of the coil. What I ended up with was a small beard on the end to channel the majority of the condensate down the middle of the column. Without it, I had a good wall of liquid running down the sides of the sight glass.
OP, you'll likely spend a few runs deciding what works best in YOUR shed. I know I did, and frankly, Im not done yet, but my neutral from AG whiskey feints is pretty damn good.Use all your senses, and its not that hard. You just have to pay attention.
Procrastinate, you'll make better whiskey.

kimbodious

It doesn’t pay to overthink the scrubbers in the RC coil thing. Just as long that there’s contact between the RC and the walls on the reflux chamber somewhere.

Here is my RC made with corrugated stainless steel tubing. It isn’t pretty but it gets the job done.--
50L Beer keg boiler, 2200W element
Modular 2" Pot Still
Modular 2" CCVM
opinions are free and everybody has them, experience costs you time

Mereside

Not that this is scientific comparison, but I find mine more effective (1/4" copper single helix) without the copper mesh woven into the middle of the coil. What I ended up with was a small beard on the end to channel the majority of the condensate down the middle of the column. Without it, I had a good wall of liquid running down the sides of the sight glass.
OP, you'll likely spend a few runs deciding what works best in YOUR shed. I know I did, and frankly, Im not done yet, but my neutral from AG whiskey feints is pretty damn good.Thanks for the reply, is the aim to have the refluxed liquid fall rather than run down the column?, I am assuming this is to go through the packing properly?, regards Wayne.When I get it running I can tune how it works, the coils are just touching the sides but I can see how it performs and adjust as I go, regards Wayne

Deplorable

Theoretically you will get better reflux if the spirit is being channeled down the middle of the column rather than the sides.Use all your senses, and its not that hard. You just have to pay attention.
Procrastinate, you'll make better whiskey.